At their mercy.
Posted by chef64 on June 3, 2007
Being a chef I can appreciate what goes into a dish or menu. Between the rising cost of ingredients or supply versus demand during hard times…it can almost made your head spin. Talent comes with a price too. Some even will tack on the extra cost of their inflated ego’. Now, I don’t think I would complain about a $500 tasting because knowing who, what and when they are. I mean, I don’t think people who would go to a high end restaurant would look at the bill and say “$75 dollars for trans what??” The word is actually transglutamanaise and it is actually an enzyme used in the commercial production of sausage and the like. What you are paying for at any restaurant is actually not just the food. It is the service, the decor, the space (meaning the restaurant itself) and the creative knowlege that the chef has gained over the course of his career. In the case of Chicago’ Alinea, Moto and of course Trotters you are experiencing food’ created by some of this countries greatest culinary minds. Grant Achatz studied under Thomas Keller (he is my idol) of the French Laundry, so it is safe to say that chef Keller’ style is reflected in the Alinea menu. Sort of a French Laundry of the future. Homoro cantu was sous chef for Charlie Trotter so you can see the same style in Moto’ design. The big difference here is that chef Cantu is more of the scientist. It goes to show that he focus’ on what he calls “the minds eye.” He has more that 30 patents pending on his inventions to include a polymer box that will cook the food for you at your table. All this being said, you are still subject to being at their mercy.
It used to be that they needed you, but now the tables have turned. More and more chef’ are drifting away from honoring your request for subbing out ingredients for another. I worked at a restaurant recently that the chef actually told the manager that the host could not get what ever soup she liked, but rather what the chef felt like making. I disagree with that. if someone is booking a party then they should get certain conciderations…don’t you? The only choices that some of these chef offer is the size or selection of the tasting items. Most are pretty much set in their components though. If you are not a fan of PB & J I understand, but at Alinea the dish is set one way and cannot be altered. Now…in a case such as that, I would understand the “no substitution” rule. There is the choice of which menu to pick from, but that is the limitation. I don’t think you should be “told” to have truffles or what wines to have. A sommolier is a helper, with great knowlege of wine, but being dibetic I don’t imbibe very often. Just remember that YOU are chosing to dine wherever, so the chef should cut you some slack. Even if they don’t think so…they still need us more. With great power comes great responsibility…so give us some room for indipendant thinking.
Today I am not going to give you a recipe but rather some choices. It is up to you to decide what, where, why and how to use the choices I give you. If you like them, use them. If not, you don’t have to. The choices are a good steak such as Hanger Steak or Sirloin, Game Hen or Duck breast, Cod or Sea Bass and finally potatoes, rice, pasta and Asparagus or Spinach or Carrots. It is up to you to chose what you like, how you like and which method to cook them. Remember, if they aren’t what you like…pick something else to either cook at home, or have it in a restaurant. The choice here is yours, and don’t be afraid to ask them to substitute something else. A good chef will honor what you wish because he is happy that you decided to dine in his restaurant.
That’s it for today…I hope you liked what you read, and tune in next week for more. Bye